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Tennis Strings Recommendations

Racquet recommendations?

Well, I'm looking for a new racquet for tennis season, and I was wondering if anyone could give me some recommendations.

I started playing tennis last year, starting on my high school JV team. Most likely I will also be on JV this year too. I'd probably rate myself a 3.5 or a 3 on the USTA scale. I'm really looking to develop some good spin in my game, as I can only hit flat shots consistently. I'd just really like to improve my game all around. My current racquet is a Prince Thunderstick, and it sucks. Price doesn't matter. Any string recommendations would also be helpful.

Go to this site:

http://www.tennislovers.com/

It doesn't really matter what brand you get, as long as you get a racket that is your size. Trust me, I play tennis too.
That site tells you how to take your height and everything in order to get a racket that is just the right size for you.
Hope that helps!

Strings $5.99 Strings

No Strings $9.49 No Strings

Technical Tennis $21.09 What are the single most important variables in racquet performance? What racquet and string features combine to provide the most control, comfort, and feel? How can a player create maximum spin? This informative primer answers these and other elusive equipment and performance-related questions that perennially plague hackers and experts alike. A simplified, layperson`s companion to the authors` previous work, The Physics and Technology of Tennis, this conveniently sized guide to selecting racquets and strings includes bite-sized explanations of the possible expectations of equipment choices.

Champion Sports 27'' Standard Head Tennis Racket $34.95 The Champion Sports Standard Head Tennis Racket is a great tool for recreational tennis players. This 27'' racket features a durable aluminum frame, nylon strings, and a leather grip, so you can play in comfort.

Champion Sports 24'' Midsize Head Tennis Racket $34.95 For players seeking equal parts power and control, try the Champion Sports Midsize Head Tennis Racket. This 24'' tennis racket features a durable aluminum frame, a wide body construction, nylon strings, and a comfortable leather grip.

Champ Tennis Racket: SP $21.2 Standard size head…25" all aluminum frame…Nylon strings, leather grip.

Jr. Tennis Racket: SP $25.52 Midsize head...Wide body construction... 24'' aluminum frame...Nylon strings, leather grip.

27''Aluminum Tennis Racket: SP $22.8 Standard size head…All aluminum frame…Nylon strings, leather grip.

Tennis $19.99 Magassa Tennis - Art Print

Champion Sports 25'' Intermediate Tennis Racket $33.95 Players becoming serious about their tennis game need a racket that will live up to their level of training. The Champion Sports Intermediate Tennis Racket is 25'' and features a durable aluminum frame with nylon strings. The leather gripped handle gives you comfort and control while you play your hardest.

Champion Sports 27'' Oversize Head Tennis Racket $40.95 Oversize head tennis rackets are perfect for players who are seeking more power in their swing. The Champion Sports Oversize Head Tennis Racket is 27'' and features a durable aluminum frame, wide body construction, nylon strings, and a comfortable leather grip.

MacGregor Wide Body Tennis Racket $23.95 The MacGregor Wide Body Tennis Racket is ideal for recreational players of all ages. It features lightweight aluminum construction with two-tone baked enamel painted finish. This tennis racket features a mid-size 88 sq. inch head, bumper guard, soft synthetic grip, and open throat design. This MacGregor racket weighs only 8.8 oz. with strings and is available in three grip sizes.

Tennis Magazine April 2005 $5.95 Tennis Magazine April 2005 A Grip on Your Game What makes a great stroke? Sure, you need things like good footwork, solid contact, and a fluid swing. But don't forget your grip. It may just be the most important element of all. BY JON LEVEY Spring Gear Guide The wait is over. It's our big spring gear guide, with comprehensive assessments of the season's racquets, shoes, strings, bags, and socks. BY JAMES MARTIN Great Shots The sound technique of Taylor Dent's backhand volley Hard to Handle How to be successful taking the ball on the rise Brad's Corner Protecting a shaky second serve or a weak backhand Doubles Learn to poach off of your partner's return of serve Match Pointers Lessons from the 2005 Australian Open men's final Professional Advice Your questions answered Paul's Clinic The tactics needed to beat a counter-puncher Tip Advice from TENNIS.com Health & Fitness Get off the couch and into shape for the new season with our four-week training regimen. BY MICHELLE KATLAN The Tennis Life All of your character traits are on display when you step on a tennis courtincluding the tendency to gag. BY DAN WEIL Court of Appeals Rules, rules, rules Plus Chrissie's Page, 40 Greatest Players of the Tennis Era, Baseline, Scoreboard, Calendar, Rankings, My Point

What Strings are Right for you?

CHOP, HALF VOLLEY, AND COURT POSITION

Chop stroke.
————

In Tennis, a chop stroke is a shot where the angle towards the player and behind the racquet, made by the line of flight of the ball, and the racquet travelling down across it’s greater than 45 degrees and perhaps 90 degrees. The racquet face passes slightly outside the ball and down the side, chopping it, as a man chops wood. The spin and curve is from right to left. It’s made with a stiff wrist.

The slice shot merely reduced the angle mentioned from 45 degrees down to a very small one. The racquet face passes either inside or outside the ball, according to direction desired, while the stroke is mainly a wrist twist or slap. This slap imparts a decided skidding break to the ball, while a chop “drags†the ball off the ground without break.

The rules of footwork for both these shots should be the same as the drive, but because both are made with a short swing and more wrist play, without the need of weight, the rules of footwork perhaps more safely discarded and body position not so carefully considered.

Both these shots are essentially defensive, and are labour-saving devices when your opponent gets on the baseline. A chop or slice is very hard to drive, and will crack up any driving game.

It is not a shot to use against a volley, as it’s too slow to pass and too high to cause any worry. It should be wont to drop short, soft shots at the feet of the net man as he comes in. Don’t strive to pass a net man with a chop or slice, except through a big opening.

The drop-shot is a very soft, sharply-angled chop stroke, played wholly with the wrist. It should drop within 3 to 5 feet of the net to be of any use. The racquet face passes around the outside of the ball and under that with a distinct “wrist turn.†Don’t swing the racquet from the shoulder in making a drop shot. The drop shot has no regard to a stop-volley. The drop shot is all wrist. The stop-volley has no wrist at all.

Use all your wrist shots, chop, slice, and drop, merely as an auxilliary to your orthodox game. They’re intended to upset your opponent’s game through the varied spin on the ball.

The half volley.
—————-

This shot requires more complete timing, eyesight, and racquet work than any other, since its safety margin is smallest and its manifold chances of mishaps numberless.
It’s a pick-up. The ball meets the ground and racquet face at nearly the same moment, the ball bouncing off the ground, on the strings. This shot is a stiff-wrist, short swing, like a volley without any follow through. The racquet face follows the ground with a slight tilt over the ball and towards the net, thus holding the ball low; the shot, like all others in tennis, should travel across the racquet face, along the short strings. The racquet face should always be slightly outside the ball.

The half volley is essentially a defensive stroke, since it should only be made as a last resort, when found out of position by your opponent’s shot. It’s a desperate attempt to extricate yourself from a dangerous position without retreating. never deliberately half volley.

Court position.
—————

A tennis court is 39 feet long from baseline to net. There are only two places in a tennis court that a tennis player should be to await the ball.

1. About 3 feet behind the baseline near the middle of the court, or

2. About 6 to 8 feet back from the net and almost opposite the ball.

The first is the place for all baseline players. The second is the net position.

If you’re drawn out of these positions by a shot which you must return, don’t remain at the point where you struck the ball, but attain among the two positions mentioned as rapidly as possible.

The distance from the baseline to about 10, feet from the net perhaps considered as “no-man’s-land†or “the blank.†Never linger there, since a deep shot will catch you at your feet. After making your shot from the blank, as you must often do, retreat behind the baseline to await the return, so you may again step forward to meet the ball. If you’re drawn in short and cannot retreat safely, continue the whole way to the net position.

Never stand and watch your shot, for to do so simply means you’re out of position for your next stroke. Strive to attain a position so that you always reach the spot the ball is going to before it actually arrives. Do your hard running while the ball is in the air, so you will not be hurried in your stroke after it bounces.

It’s in learning to do this that natural anticipation plays a big role. Some players instinctively know where the next return is going and take position accordingly, while others will never sense it. It’s to the latter class that I urge court position, and recommend always getting in from behind the baseline to meet the ball, since it’s much easier to run forward than back.

Should you be caught at the net, with a short shot to your opponent, don’t stand still and let him pass you at will, as he can easily do. Pick out the side where you think he will hit, and jump to, it suddenly as he swings. If you guess right, you win the point. If you are wrong, you are no worse off, since he would have beaten you anyway with his shot.

Your position should always strive to be such you can cover the greatest possible area of court without sacrificing safety, since the straight shot is the surest, most serious, and must be covered. It’s merely a question of how much more court than that immediately ahead of the ball perhaps guarded.

A well-grounded knowledge of court position saves many points, to say nothing of much breath expended in long runs after hopeless shots.

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